Black & Decker Drill Drivers

Black & Decker CD12CA 12v | Black & Decker CP12KB 12v | Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v | Black & Decker CP142KB 14.4v | Black & Decker Lithium Ion 14.4v | Black & Decker PS142KB 14.4v | Black & Decker CD18CA 18v

Black & Decker CD12CA 12v Cordless Drill Driver

Black & Decker CD12CA 12v Drill Driver

Single sleeve, metal, keyless chuck which makes changing the bit fast and easy. Simple, quick change of batteries due to ergonomic slide pack battery locking system 22 position clutch let you to decide how far you drive a screw into material The CD12CA also has an anti-slip soft grip for increased comfort.


Additional features include a forward/reverse switch for added versatility; compact power that enables easy drilling and screwdriving in any area; baattery level indicator indicating remaining charge time; variable speed for controlled drilling;1.5Ahr batteries for increased life per charge; reversing and torque control for flush screws

Specifications:

Voltage: 12v
Battery type: Slide-pack
Capacity: 1.5 Ah
Charge time: 3 h
Chuck: Keyless Single Sleeve
Chuck Size: 10mm mm
Clutch positions: 22
Clutch mechanism: Yes
Max. capacity - wood :25 mm
Max. capacity: steel: 10 mm
Max capacity: masonry: 0 mm
Soft grip: Yes
Reverse Yes
Speed: Variable
No load speed 0-700 rpm
2nd handle: No
Kitbox: Yes
Torque control: Yes
Max Torque: 16 Nm

Choosing a drill

Great examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CD12CA 12v, Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v, DeWalt DW965K 12v, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v, Makita 6319DWDE3 12v, and including the Ryobi CHD1202 12v

In the event that 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are more your thing, then make sure to look at the Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v, Bosch PSR 14.4v, DeWalt DC757KA 14.4v, the Hitachi DSDL Li-Ion 14.4v,Makita 6280DZ 14.4v, and the Ryobi CCD-1441 14.4v

For all your your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers needs, compare prices of the Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v, DeWalt DC920KB 18v, Hitachi DS18DL 18v, the Makita 6390DWPE3 18v or the Ryobi CCD-181M One+ 18v

The biggest benefit of the cordless drill driver over its powered partner is the freedom to be used anywhere, the downside of a battery drill is the harder you work the drill the speedier the battery runs out, so you have to make sure that you are buying the right voltage cordless drill driver for the job, there is no point in investing money into a 12 volt drill and expecting it to be able to drill fifty 16mm holes from one set of batteries because it won’t.

A Hammer Drill is not only able to provide a rotary motion but may also apply a small amount of hammer action to the drill bit, as though someone was tapping the back of the drill while the bit was spinning. This enables the drill to work through masonry. A Hammer Drill might typically have the ability to switch the hammer action off and on as required. You might find that motor wattages start around 600w for this type of drill and a good idea is to look at machines with around a 700w motor, these might enable you to drill masonry with up to a 16mm bit. This type of drill is a good all rounder for the home.

Drills come in three distinct handle styles. The many popular cordless models have the T-handle style where the handle is placed near the middle. The T-handle style distributes the weight for better balance and less wrist strain. Some people still prefer the more traditional pistol-grip style. The third style is the right-angle version, designed for use where space is limited.

A reversible drill is a must should you plan on using the drill with screwdriver bits. Torque is the term used to describe the rotational strain exerted by the drill. Today's higher voltage cordless drill drivers might provide nearly the same amount of torque as a corded model. Yes, bigger is better, but increased power almost always brings increased size and weight. Unless you plan on drilling with large self-feeding or auger drill bits, think about a more compact model with a lower torque. Because there is no industry standard for measuring torque, be aware that you cannot compare the torque ratings of drill drivers from one brand to another.

All cordless drill drivers come with a battery charger, with recharge times ranging from 15 minutes to three hours. But faster isn't necessarily better. A contractor might depend on fast recharges, but slower recharging isn't usually a concern at home, especially should you have two batteries. What's more, there are drawbacks to fast charging. A speedy recharge can damage a battery by generating excessive heat, unless it's a specially designed unit. If you want a speedy recharge, go with a tool from Makita, Hitachi or Panasonic, whose "smart" chargers are equipped with temperature sensors and feedback circuitry that protect batteries. These units provide a charge in as little as nine minutes without battery damage.

Check out drill drivers in DIY centres noting their weight and balance. Try out vertical and horizontal drilling positions to see how comfortable you feel. Contoured grips and rubber cushioning on some models make them very comfortable, even when you're applying direct palm pressure. While you're at it, see how easy it is to change clutch settings and operate the keyless chuck.

Drilling a hole isn't rocket science but it can be quite frustrating should you don't know how to do it. For example, should you try to use a wood auger bit to drill a hole in metal you'll ruin the bit, score the metal and possibly injure yourself in the process. Drilling a hole correctly, however, is something you can easily accomplish with a little practice.

A drill without a drill bit is useless. A drill bit is the piece at the end of the drill that does the actual drilling. Drill bits come in a wide variety of sizes (diameter) and length. First you have to insert the bit into the drill. The end of the drill’s barrel has an opening. Insert the dull end of the drill bit into this hole. Now you have to tighten the drill bit into this hole so the bit is secure and does not come free. This is accomplished in one of two ways. The many traditional way is to use a chuck key. The chuck key is a small piece of petal shaped in a right angle. One piece of the key fits into the tightening collar around the bit. There is a hole there for that purpose. Then you simply turn the key clockwise tightening the collar over the bit. Turn it clockwise to tighten. Turn it counter-clockwise to loosen the collar and free the bit. When you do this make certain the drill is unplugged from its power source. This is a safety precaution. The second way does not include a chuck key. Instead there are usually two tightening collars. The bit is inserted in the outer most collar. Grasp this collar with one hand holding it steady. With a small bit of power provided by squeezing the trigger the loose collar spins freely and tightens the bit into the collar. If you want to tighten the bit the collar must spin clockwise. If you want to loosen the bit the collar must turn counter-clockwise. The direction of the collar’s spin is determined by moving a switch on the drill usually located near the trigger. Now your drill is ready to go. You now have the correct bit size and it is securely settled into the drill. You are ready to drill. First make certain the bit is the appropriate material for the material you are drilling. Select a bit designed for metal should you are drilling through metal and select a bit designed for wood when drilling through wood. Using the incorrect bit might damage the bit and perhaps not accomplish the task. Using a wood bit on metal often does not penetrate the metal. When you have marked on the material to be drilled where you want the hole mark it with a pencil or marker with a dot or ‘x’. Place the drill bit exactly on the mark, squeeze the drill trigger and give just the slightest push to the drill. Let the drill do the work. Be patient and don’t strain the drill bit through the hole. Try to keep the drill as perpendicular to the material as possible.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink drill bits are used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These drill bits tend to be designed for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results might be obtained should the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they can be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening can be difficult, but can be done with a fine triangular file. Tile drill bits are those drill bits used for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They can be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) may be used to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles can also be drilled using a masonry bit should it is used at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge can be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

Never overload a socket with too a lot of plugs or adaptors. Don't allow cables and flexes to become kinked or frayed. Make sure plugs are undamaged and tightly closed with no loose connections and that cord grips are tightened. Ensure plugs are correctly fused. Fuses protect cables and flexes from the effects of overheating caused by short circuits and overload.
When painting, or using any material that generates toxic fumes or dust, keep the room well ventilated. Never smoke while painting or standing close to a freshly painted area.

Always keep a chemical fire extinguisher in the house. Never use water to put out a fire in an electrical appliance. Gas and electrical work is best left to a registered professional.

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert advice. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights. If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the socket and unplug it before trying to find out why. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on. If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is hazardous.

If you have any doubts whatsoever about how to safely use any material, or equipment, ask the manufacturer or supplier.
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